Samsung Washer Error Codes: Complete List and Fixes

Quick answer

A Samsung washer error code is a short message on the display that tells you which system tripped: water in, water out, door, balance, power or a sensor. Most codes fix themselves with a 2–3 minute power reset and one quick check. The five you will see most are 4C/4E (not filling), 5C/5E (not draining), UB/UE (unbalanced load), LC/LE (leak or water level) and dC/dE (door).

Find your code in the table below, follow the fix, and only call a technician if the code returns after the steps for your code. This guide covers Samsung front-load and top-load washers sold in the U.S. Code lists vary slightly by model, so always confirm in your owner’s manual.

Fast start: unplug the washer for 1 minute (or flip its breaker), plug it back in, and restart the cycle. Samsung’s own page lists this as the first step for 4C and as the only step for codes it has no specific fix for.

Before you start: read the code and stay safe

Samsung shows codes in two ways. Most washers print letters on the display (for example 4C or UB). Models without a screen flash a pattern of the temperature and load-size lights instead. The table and the blinking-light list below cover both.

Some codes come in families. 4C, 4E and nF all mean the same thing, and so do 5C, 5E and SE. Samsung changed the labels between models, not the problem. If your exact code is missing from the table, look for its twin.

Do the power reset first.

Stop the cycle and unplug the washer, or switch off its breaker.
Wait 1–3 minutes. The control board needs that long to clear the fault.
Plug it back in and restart. If the code is gone, you are done. If it returns, move on to the fix for that code.

Safety: unplug the washer before touching hoses, filters or anything at the back. Turn off both water faucets before disconnecting a supply hose. Keep towels and a shallow pan ready, because a drain filter releases more water than you expect. Never run the machine with a hose disconnected or a filter removed.

You will need for most fixes: towels, a shallow baking pan, a flashlight, needle-nose pliers and a bucket. A level helps with balance errors.

This table follows Samsung’s U.S. support list. Codes in the same row are different labels for the same fault, depending on your model. The last column points to the fix further down.

Code(s)	What it means	Most likely cause	Difficulty	Fix
4C, 4E, nF, 1 4C	Not filling	Closed faucet, kinked hose, clogged inlet filter	Easy	Fix 1 · 4C guide
4C2, 4E2, CE, nF1, 14C2	Hot/cold hoses swapped	Hot hose on the cold inlet, or the reverse	Easy	Fix 2
5C, 5E, SE, nd, SC	Not draining	Clogged pump filter, kinked or blocked drain hose	Easy–Medium	Fix 3 · 5C guide
OE, 0E, OC, 0C	Overflow	Too much water in the tub, usually a drain problem	Medium	Fix 3
UB, UE, Ub, U6, Ur, dc	Unbalanced load	Bunched laundry, small load of heavy items, washer not level	Easy	Fix 4 · UB guide
LC, LE, 1C, 1E, LC1	Leak or water level	Moisture where it should not be, or a sensor fault	Medium	Fix 5
dC, dE, dS, dL, FL, LO, dC1, dE1, dE2	Door not closed and locked	Caught clothing, worn latch	Easy	Fix 6
ddC, dC3	Add Door not locked	Add Door open or latch blocked	Easy	Fix 6
SDC	Detergent drawer open	Drawer not fully clicked shut	Easy	Close the drawer until it clicks
SUd, Sd, SUdS	Excess suds	Too much or the wrong detergent	Easy	Fix 7
E2, bE2, 6E2, BE2, 8E2	Jammed button	A panel button reads as stuck	Easy	Fix 8
9C1, 9C2, PF, 2E, 3E, 9E1, 9E2, UC	Voltage error	Irregular power supply	Medium	Fix 9
Cb, C6	Calibration mode	Not an error: the washer is recalibrating weight sensing	None	Empty washer, wait 1–3 minutes
dn	Downloading update	Not an error: software update in progress	None	Leave it on; about 15 minutes
CL	Child lock	Child Lock drained the tub	Easy	Power cycle or turn off Child Lock
HC, HE, HE1, Hr, tE, tC, 3C, 8E, bE, 7E, PC, PE, IE, SF, Sr, 9C6–9C8	Internal faults (heater, temperature sensor, board, others)	Samsung lists no specific steps	Hard	Fix 10

One trap: Samsung lists lowercase dc under unbalanced load, while capital dC is a door code. If your display is hard to read, check the code against your manual.

Blinking-light patterns (washers without a code display)

Lights blinking	Same as code	Meaning
Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High	4C	Not filling
Hot + Small or Hot + Low	4C2	Hot/cold hoses swapped
Small or Low	5C	Not draining
Tap Cold, Cool, Medium or Mid	OE	Overflow
Cold or Eco Warm	E2	Jammed button
Hot, or Hot + Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High	dE	Door error
Hot + Warm	UB	Unbalanced load
Self Clean	n/a	Reminder to run a Tub Clean cycle, not an error
Hot + Cold, Warm, Hot + Tap Cold, Hot + Medium	n/a	Motor, communication, sensor and heater faults: do the power reset, then call support

How to fix each Samsung washer error

Steps follow Samsung’s support guides. Do them in order and restart a cycle after each one, so you know which step solved it.

Fix 1: 4C, 4E, nF (washer not filling)

Time: 10–20 minutes. Tools: needle-nose pliers, towel.

Check that the hot and cold hoses are on the correct inlets and have no bends or kinks. Samsung’s page also says to avoid Flood Safe hoses.
Open both water faucets all the way.
Check the drain hose. Samsung says to insert it 6–8 inches into the drain pipe and to tighten its hose screw. A badly placed drain hose can let water leave as fast as it enters.
Unplug the washer for 1 minute (or flip the breaker), then plug it in and restart.
Still failing? Clean the inlet filters. Unplug the washer, turn off both faucets and unscrew the hoses from the back. Pull each small screen straight out by its center tab (needle-nose pliers help), rinse it under warm water and scrub gently. Reinstall it with the tab facing outward. A torn screen needs replacing.

Full walkthrough: Samsung Washer 4C Error: Causes and 5 Easy Fixes.

Fix 2: 4C2, 4E2, CE, nF1 (hot and cold hoses swapped)

Samsung’s explanation is that the cold supply is reading extremely hot. Connect the cold hose (blue) to the cold inlet and the hot hose (red) to the hot inlet. No service call needed.

Fix 3: 5C, 5E, nd, SE and OE, 0E (draining problems)

Time: 15–30 minutes. Tools: towels, shallow pan, coin, bucket.

Check that the drain hose has no kinks. On a standpipe, keep the hose end inserted no deeper than your manual allows (Samsung’s U.S. page says 6–8 inches).
Clean the drain pump filter. On most front-loaders it sits behind a small access door at the lower front. Open it with a coin, lay towels down and set a pan underneath.
Pull out the emergency drain hose first and let the water run into the pan or bucket.
Turn the filter counterclockwise to remove it, wash it in warm water, wipe out the recess with a damp cloth and screw it back in clockwise.
If it still won’t drain, disconnect the drain hose at both ends and clear any clog with a straightened wire hanger. Reattach it and run a drain-and-spin cycle.

Top-load models use a different access point, so check your manual before opening any panel. For OE or 0E (overflow), shut off the faucets if the water keeps rising, then use the same drain checks. Full guide: Samsung Washer 5C Error.

Fix 4: UB, UE, Ub, U6, dc (unbalanced load)

Time: 5–10 minutes.

Pause the cycle, open the door and untangle the laundry. Spread it evenly around the drum.
Never wash one heavy item alone. Add a few towels to balance it.
Check that all four feet touch the floor and the washer does not rock. Turn each leveler clockwise to raise it or counterclockwise to lower it.
Leave a gap of about 4 inches (10 cm) between the washer and the wall.
Close the door and restart. If UB keeps coming back on small loads, the problem is the floor or the feet. Full guide: Samsung Washer UB Error.

Fix 5: LC, LE, 1C, 1E (leak or water level)

Look for water around the door gasket, the supply hoses and the back of the washer. Fix any leak you find.
Check that the supply and drain hoses are not kinked and the drain hose screw is tight.
Run an empty cycle with no detergent. If suds appear, keep running empty cycles until the water runs clear, then test again.
If the code returns with no visible leak, a moisture sensor may be at fault. Contact Samsung support.

Fix 6: dC, dE, dS, dL, LO, ddC (door)

Remove clothing caught in the door and shut it fully until it latches.
Check that the latch is secure and not cracked.
If the latch or door is damaged, call support. On FlexWash models, 1dC4 points to a missing rubber button, which you replace.

Fix 7: SUd, Sd (too many suds)

The washer pauses to let the suds settle and then continues by itself. Samsung says this is not a repair issue: it comes from the detergent. Use less, and check your manual for the detergent type it calls for (high-efficiency models need HE detergent).

Fix 8: E2, bE2 (jammed button)

Turn the washer off. Press each button one at a time and work it back and forth to reach every edge. If a button is damaged or the code returns, contact support.

Fix 9: 9C1, 9C2, PF, UC (voltage)

Plug the washer directly into a wall outlet on its own circuit. Never use an extension cord. PF is an interrupted power signal, often from a power cut or a shared circuit. If it repeats on a dedicated outlet, call Samsung support or an electrician.

Fix 10: HE, HC, tE, 3C and other codes with no listed fix

Samsung gives one step for these: power the washer off for 2–3 minutes, power it on and restart the cycle. If the code comes back, the fault is internal (heater, temperature sensor, control board or motor) and needs a technician.

When to call a technician (and what it costs)

Call a pro, or Samsung support, when any of these is true:

The same code returns after the fix for that code and a power reset.
You have a heater, temperature sensor, board or motor code (the HE, HC, tE group).
The door latch is cracked or the door will not lock.
Water leaks from inside the machine and no hose or filter explains it.
The breaker trips, you smell burning or you see sparks. Unplug the washer and stop using it.

Check whether the washer is still under warranty before you book anyone. Have the model number ready (it is on a label inside the door frame or on the back, depending on the model).

Typical U.S. repair prices from HomeAdvisor’s washing machine repair guide (updated June 17, 2026). These are national averages for all brands, not Samsung quotes:

Repair	Typical cost (USD)	Codes it usually relates to
Water inlet valve	$95–$190	4C, 4E
Hoses	$130–$250	4C, LC, 5C
Shock absorbers or bearings	$150–$200	UB, loud vibration
Door lock or latch	$150–$400	dC, dE
Drain pump	$300–$400	5C, 5E, OE
Motor	$320–$400	Motor and internal codes

The same guide puts the average washer repair at about $125–$450, with a full range of $50–$900. If a quote lands near half the price of a new washer and the machine is over 8–10 years old, compare it with a replacement first. Our repair or replace guides break down that math.

Samsung washer error code FAQ

How do I clear an error code on a Samsung washer?

Unplug the washer (or switch off its breaker) for 1–3 minutes, plug it back in and restart. That clears the display, but the code returns if the cause is still there. Fix the cause using the table above. See How to Reset a Samsung Washer for model-specific notes.

Are 5C and 5E the same error?

Yes. Samsung groups 5C, 5E, SE, nd and SC as the same “not draining” fault. The label depends on the model and the year. The same goes for 4C, 4E and nF (not filling).

Why does my Samsung washer show 4C when the water is on?

The faucets can be open and water still not arrive. A kinked hose, a clogged inlet filter screen or a drain hose set up so water siphons out can all trigger 4C. Work through Fix 1 in order.

Is the blinking Self Clean light an error?

No. Samsung describes it as a reminder to run a maintenance cycle after a set number of washes. Run a Tub Clean cycle when it suits you, and the light goes off.

Can I keep using the washer with an error code showing?

For 4C, UB or a suds code, yes: fix the cause and retry. Stop using it for voltage codes, a tripped breaker, burning smells, sparks or a leak you can’t trace. Those can damage the machine or the wiring.

Samsung washer error codes: full list